Day 3 Tusheti crossing in Georgia – Shatili – Mutso – Atsunta pass military checkpoint
It was forecasted for a chuck load of rain. I didn’t even know how far I can get and if the next two days of hiking across the 3500m mountain pass were possible. My plan for the day was to get to the base of the hike and see how it goes, at least that’s when I went to bed.
When I woke up, the weather forecast had cleared for the day, but it was due to rain every day in two days time, al that was my window. I woke up late but decided to make the most out of it.
Packed, convinced the reluctant hosts to make me breakfast, paid and head out. First order of business was the mess about and procrastinate a bit more by visiting the old Shatili stone towers. Beautiful, considered iconic.
Next I had no water or food, so a two day hike seemed stupid. Went in the first guest house in the lower town and got myself drinks, water and the one thing I knew best by now – khachapuri (bread, cheese and butter – rocket fuel). They gave me two massive ones and I wrapped them in cardboard and strapped them to the bike.
The road was still decending for about 10km and then another 10-15 up to Mutso. On the way I saw an old crypt from the Caucasian wars (if I got it right). Definitely a way to lighten the mood. But the sun was shining, it was beautifully warm and I was loving a road I could actually ride on.
On the way a car passed me and then the driver stopped and waited. “Oh no, what now” I thought. He lowered the window and passed me an apple. He said it’s from Shatoi, on the north side of the mountains. I asked “Is that on the other side of the border?”, “What border?” He relied. “The Russian border?”, “There’s no border!” he said, “Russia is part of Georgia!”. “Fair enough” I relied, not wanting to decipher the politics behind that statement. I thanked him and he left.
After a few more hills I saw an old soviet 4×4 parked and then two military personnel with guns. I waved, one nodded. I wondered if they are the ones I need to get my pass for the mountain from.
The road continued next to the river and I saw little sheds and houses here and there with fields behind them. It always makes me wonder how people in such remote places live when I see these views.
Around the corner I saw the first of the Mutso castle towers very high up.
Made it to Mutso and sat down to eat something, knowing it will be a long day and the food on me was for reserve. Got apples, another khachapuri and I saw they had 3 chocolate bars left so I bought all of them. Ate the khachapuri, filled the water bottles and back on the road.
The next stop was the military checkpoint where I should get a pass, which would be checked before going over the mountain. But literally 10mins before I saw the old soviet 4×4 pass up the road going somewhere. The military checkpoint building was empty apart from a dog barking at me from inside. I decided not to wait and waste time, but was risking not going through. From my research, one other person was in this situation and they let him pass at the top, so I was taking the risk.
The road splits in two. One crossing the river and approaching the ridge form the south, the other going up and (from what I saw on the map) leading on a trail to a guest house before the base of the hike from the north side of the ridge. Now, I knew most people take the south side, but I decided to take the north one, because I knew the guest house was much closer and worst comes to worse I could bail in case the weather turned nasty and the hike didn’t go well.
The road immediately got very steep and we went back to pushing. Eventually had to cross the river on a few fallen trees converted into a bridge. Continued following the trail and this is where it got proper scary. It was on a sandy bank, barely a line in the sand, the river far below. Every step I took was slipper and edging down, especially with navigating the loaded bike it became very risky as the rear wheel kept slipping off the path and I had to drag it back up, but that took one of my feet off. A few times I had to hold my breath and just balance carefully to make it through. First doubts creeped in “Wtf am I doing”. Made it through. Round the corner I saw the guest house and pushed the bike through the stony terrain until I could ride it.
At the guest house asked about the trail, the host told me he thinks is around an hour of hiking (translated that to 3 for me with the bike). He gave me access to his WiFi so I could update my family on where I am (no signal) knowing potentially I wouldn’t have signal for two days.
Met two German hikers coming down from the trial and they mentioned that they saw two bikes camped up near the military checkpoint – that gave me a boost. But they seemed reluctant to encourage me, seeing the bike and saying the trail is very steep and slippery. It has to be given a try!
I rode the down the old road until the base of the trail. Having prepared a hardness from old backpack’s straps, I tied them to the frame and put the bike on my back. Let’s see how this goes.
The harness was comfortable to hike with, but after about 200m elevation and 500-600m distance, I had to stop to rest. The path got steeper and I had to stop more often. The bike staying on my back constantly was too tiring and it wasn’t worth it. It could work on a stonier section with less elevation, but here it wasn’t working, so I took the bike down and pushed it.
The gradient was painful – 28-36%. Single track, lots of switchbacks, rocks, mud, slippery roots.
Progress was slow, doing a few ten meters and stopping, breathing a bit, pushing some more. The views were the only payment I needed – just incredible. After two hours I had made a good progress and my estimate was about spot on. I sat down and heard some noise. Behind me, between the trees a man appeared with a horse and a dog. He stopped. We exchanged some words in broken Russian and he explained he works at the cafe near the military checkpoint. I gave him an apple, had one myself. We both just saw and watched the mountains. It was serene.
Soon he gave his apple core to the horse, I gave mine to his dog and he left on, saying he’ll see me soon. Another half an hour and I was at the top.
At the military checkpoint they wanted my passport, to explain where and why I’m going, and most importantly how… (turning heads towards the bike). They wanted health insurance (uhm, not sure one the one I have works but they got a screenshot).
Set up the tent. Got in the cafe, ordered two khachapuri, tea and watched the sun hide behind the mountains in complete silence while the staff was herding the animals in for the night.